6.2018
PERFUMES THE GUIDE 2018
Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez
Print review of scents: Blues, Blood Sweat Tears, Stones, Wild is the Wind
Blues *** woody chypre
“A tremendous, stonking blast of citrus, seaweed and woods. Not exactly pleasant smelling, but as with big cluster chords played on a cathedral organ or a shot of wheatgrass juice, the sheer pressure of sensation is fun in itself.” LT
Blood Sweat Tears *** candied oriental
"Never was perfume so inappropriately named. This is a delicious dried-fruit damascenone oriental in the manner of El Attarine (Serge Lutens 2008), dark, comfortable, and rich.” LT
Stones*** woody chypre
"Stones is a limited edition fragrance (why limited?) from choreographer and artist Beau Rhee. It is very competently composed by Grasse oil house of Galimard and sits at the bitter, dark end of the - broadly defined - chypre spectrum, in the company of such things such as Guerlain’s Djedi and Lauder’s Aromatics Elixer. While not hugely original, it has an old-fashioned density to it, a slow reveal, a quality feel, and an interesting fresh-green angle among a welter of woody notes. Nice.” LT
Wild is the Wind **** floral verbena
"This one feels like a blast from the past pulled out of one of Galimard's deep drawers, but I cannot name the fragrance it reminds me of, possibly the old Tilleul D'Orsay. The slightly tart, linden-like quality of verbena gives this floral composition a soft, weeping-willow feel that is unexpectedly poetic and affecting. If, like me, you lament the demise of Givenchy's floral masculine Insense (1993), go for this one and wrap yourself in refined melancholy once more.” LT
